In 1520, Francis I of France was 26 years old and Henry VIII of England was 29. France was a major power in Europe, but England less so, and Francis wished to forge an alliance with Henry against the other major power: the Holy Roman Empire, under Charles V.
Calais was still an English possession, and the site of the meeting was between the villages of Guînes (part of the English territory) and Ardres (French). The castles at both villages were in decay, and therefore splendid temporary palaces and pavilions were erected for Henry at Guînes and for Francis at Ardres. Henry's palace covered nearly 2.5 acres and was sumptuously decorated. It contained a great hall and a spacious chapel, and outside, a gilt fountain spouted claret, hippocras (spiced wine), and water through separate runlets.
The kings first met at the Val Doré, midway between the two camps, on 7 June. Each king tried to outshine the other, with dazzling tents and clothes; the sumptuous fabric that gave the meeting its name was much in evidence.
The meetings and entertainments were conducted with much apparent cordiality, despite the language barrier. There were huge feasts, music, mummers, jousting and games. The carefully–established rules of the tournament stated that the two kings would not compete against each other, but Henry surprisingly challenged Francis in a wrestling match. It turned sour for Henry however, when he lost in quick time.
On the last day (Sunday, 24 June) sections of the mass were sung alternately in French and English.
Although the meeting was vastly impressive to any observer, its political result was negligible. Relations between the two countries worsened soon afterwards when Cardinal Wolsey, Henry's Lord Chancellor, arranged an alliance with Charles V, who declared war on France later that year – sparking the Italian War of 1521–26.
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